Monday, March 28, 2011
Amanda Matrejek
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| "For my three items I selected a gold silk skirt, a white chiffon top and a patterned chiffon top. I’m pretty excited because this is my first time playing with prints. I’m usually a solids girl, but recently I’ve been inspired by Frida Kahlo, who wore all these really great traditional Mexican prints. I couldn’t find anything that matched that, but I felt like the purple, painted geometric print evoked a similar feeling. Knowing that I have limited amounts of fabric, I chose a design that isn’t too elaborate. That being said, the gold skirt is going to be a belted pair of shorts and the top is (hopefully) going to be white with wire-framed flowers in the patterned fabric, which is inspired by the flowers Kahlo traditionally wore in her hair. The main concern I have right now is making sure I have enough fabric in the deconstruction process to make the shirt. I’m thinking the best way to accomplish it will be to a) to find a small model and b) to switch up the back so that I use as little fabric as possible. I didn’t finalize the back in a sketch because I have a feeling I’m going to have to get creative to get it to work." |
April 2nd, 2011: From the desk of Amanda Matrejek:
I started by cutting apart my fabric. The good news: I'll have plenty
of fabric for the shorts. The bad news: The shirt is going to take
more pieces than I expected. Turns out choosing small shirts was not
of fabric for the shorts. The bad news: The shirt is going to take
more pieces than I expected. Turns out choosing small shirts was not
the best choice. While I love the white chiffon, there's a large black
embroidered flower that's going to cut out a big part of my fabric. I
think when I pattern I'm going to try and get that in to the shoulder
so that it gets covered by the wire flowers. It could work, right?
Ergh, I'm going to do the shirt second and put off that disaster as
long as possible.
That being said, I'm patterning my shorts because they're going to be
the easiest part. I don't have my model yet, so I'm going to make them
a little bigger, or at least as big as I can with the fabric I have.
I'm going to use princess seams down the front so I can take them in
if need be. The most important part is going to be fit. But really,
how can you go wrong with gold shorts? Ok, ok, gold lame shorts are a
bit rough, but have faith in my ability to get sassy without looking
trashy.
I think some people are looking at this from a competitive edge, but
the way I see design is this: make things people want to wear and make
it you. I think the most exciting part about this competition is that
it's really about young people and growth. I can't wait to see what
everyone comes up with, because I feel like remakes are something a
lot of us started out messing around with at a young age and being
able to return to that idea with more vision and new skills (like
patterning) should help create some really fresh ideas.
and I started thinking: what do I have to get done? How do I go about
doing that? I realized that making shorts will require fittings and
then I realized, why make something that is only fit for one person? I
thought about how these looks are going to go up for sale, and I want
people to actually be able to wear this! Let's be real, most of us
(including myself) are not model size. I'm too short, too flat, my
butts too big. I wouldn't even be able to wear the design, and where's
the fun in clothes that don't fit?
All that being said, I've decided to make a dress primarily out of the
gold, with white, sheer fabric on the top of the bodice. I started
draping it and right now it's a giant poof. Looking at it, it's a bit
short, so I think I'm going to spend my $10 on fabric for bloomers
(because I was able to reuse the zipper from the skirt, and already
had thread). Basically, you know how little girls dress? Full dresses,
ruffled bloomers, flowers? That's kind of my new direction. I know
it's completely different, but I like things to be a little over the
top. Fashion is supposed to be fun and playful and I think this look
is going to be something that's part goofy, part daring, part cupcake.
Everyone loves cupcakes... right?
think when I pattern I'm going to try and get that in to the shoulder
so that it gets covered by the wire flowers. It could work, right?
Ergh, I'm going to do the shirt second and put off that disaster as
long as possible.
That being said, I'm patterning my shorts because they're going to be
the easiest part. I don't have my model yet, so I'm going to make them
a little bigger, or at least as big as I can with the fabric I have.
I'm going to use princess seams down the front so I can take them in
if need be. The most important part is going to be fit. But really,
how can you go wrong with gold shorts? Ok, ok, gold lame shorts are a
bit rough, but have faith in my ability to get sassy without looking
trashy.
I think some people are looking at this from a competitive edge, but
the way I see design is this: make things people want to wear and make
it you. I think the most exciting part about this competition is that
it's really about young people and growth. I can't wait to see what
everyone comes up with, because I feel like remakes are something a
lot of us started out messing around with at a young age and being
able to return to that idea with more vision and new skills (like
patterning) should help create some really fresh ideas.
April 4 update
Breaking news! I've switched my design. I started draping my shortsand I started thinking: what do I have to get done? How do I go about
doing that? I realized that making shorts will require fittings and
then I realized, why make something that is only fit for one person? I
thought about how these looks are going to go up for sale, and I want
people to actually be able to wear this! Let's be real, most of us
(including myself) are not model size. I'm too short, too flat, my
butts too big. I wouldn't even be able to wear the design, and where's
the fun in clothes that don't fit?
All that being said, I've decided to make a dress primarily out of the
gold, with white, sheer fabric on the top of the bodice. I started
draping it and right now it's a giant poof. Looking at it, it's a bit
short, so I think I'm going to spend my $10 on fabric for bloomers
(because I was able to reuse the zipper from the skirt, and already
had thread). Basically, you know how little girls dress? Full dresses,
ruffled bloomers, flowers? That's kind of my new direction. I know
it's completely different, but I like things to be a little over the
top. Fashion is supposed to be fun and playful and I think this look
is going to be something that's part goofy, part daring, part cupcake.
Everyone loves cupcakes... right?
Done with time to spare. As usual, I've hauled through the final days
to get my finished product (procrastination and I are good friends).
After realizing I wanted to make my cupcake dress, I took all my extra
fabric and gathered it to fit the dress form. Then, I draped the white
top beneath, pinning and altering the neckline to fit my design,
sewing it once I got it to where I wanted. I re-installed the zipper
from the skirt, and then used lining from the skirt to face the
neckline.
I moved on to the bloomers after that, buying some cheap white cotton
to use (on sale 30% off too!). I made a pattern based on the
measurements of the dress form, making sure there was extra so I could
gather the hem and waist. I sewed the waist and added elastic. Then,
for the bloomer, I cut up the patterned shirt ruffles and sewed them
to the hem of the short as I was heming. After, I added the elastic.
The start white looked harsh against the gold, so I took the quick,
easy route for toning them down by tea dying. Basically, take some
black tea and hot water, steep the tea for 5 minutes and then add the
garment. My dying only took an hour, but you can do it for much longer
depending on how dark you want it to look. Meanwhile, I made wire
forms for my flowers and hand-sewed fabric to create the petals. When
I finished dying, the tea had settled too much on some spots though,
leaving dark patches. By recommendation I tried to bleach them out.
Terrible idea! I was able to cover one spot but the other just wasn't
salvageable.
Finally, I added my finishing touches. I took the embroidery from the
white top and added it to the bloomers using the sewing machine. This
helped cover some of my tracks with the dying mishap too. Then, I
added the flowers to the dress and I was done. Not half bad...
to get my finished product (procrastination and I are good friends).
After realizing I wanted to make my cupcake dress, I took all my extra
fabric and gathered it to fit the dress form. Then, I draped the white
top beneath, pinning and altering the neckline to fit my design,
sewing it once I got it to where I wanted. I re-installed the zipper
from the skirt, and then used lining from the skirt to face the
neckline.
I moved on to the bloomers after that, buying some cheap white cotton
to use (on sale 30% off too!). I made a pattern based on the
measurements of the dress form, making sure there was extra so I could
gather the hem and waist. I sewed the waist and added elastic. Then,
for the bloomer, I cut up the patterned shirt ruffles and sewed them
to the hem of the short as I was heming. After, I added the elastic.
The start white looked harsh against the gold, so I took the quick,
easy route for toning them down by tea dying. Basically, take some
black tea and hot water, steep the tea for 5 minutes and then add the
garment. My dying only took an hour, but you can do it for much longer
depending on how dark you want it to look. Meanwhile, I made wire
forms for my flowers and hand-sewed fabric to create the petals. When
I finished dying, the tea had settled too much on some spots though,
leaving dark patches. By recommendation I tried to bleach them out.
Terrible idea! I was able to cover one spot but the other just wasn't
salvageable.
Finally, I added my finishing touches. I took the embroidery from the
white top and added it to the bloomers using the sewing machine. This
helped cover some of my tracks with the dying mishap too. Then, I
added the flowers to the dress and I was done. Not half bad...
Kathryn Sterner
Kathryn Sterner lives and works in the Twin Cities. She draws inspiration
from places and people, from the attitudes and environments that they
create. While she is constantly changing and experiencing new things that
impact her designs, she sees to it that each garment portrays its own
unique spirit.
Kathryn's design philosophy is that everyone is constantly learning.
Every day is a new experience and another chance to grow. The clothing
someone chooses to wear reflects the spirit and attitude of a particular
time. It should not be dulled down with the fear of regret or judgments.
Each day we should dress ourselves with the understanding that tomorrow
will be different and the appreciation that yesterday has brought us to
where we are today.
March 31, 2011
The plan for the reconstruction of this outfit is to begin with
the original jacket and change it into a skirt. This will be done by
removing the sleeves and taking in the sides of the garment. The buttons
will remain down the center and this will be the way to get the skirt on
and off. There is a lining in the jacket that will also transition to be
the lining in the skirt. The waistband of the skirt will come from the body
of the stripe collar shirt. The shirt of the outfit will be made from the floral dress and the stripe
shirt. The body of the shirt will be made in a kimono style from the skirt
of the dress, sewn in the shoulders and the sides. The cuffs of the sleeve
will be made from the collars of the stripe shirt.The finished garment will be a modest silhouette with a youthful aspect supplied by the mixed prints.
Here is Elise Diebel and her Clothes Have Dreams Too redesign
I'm excited to get a chance to really sit down and work on this project- I've started to play around with draping my pieces, which is how I'll start the patterning process. I love the whole problem solving process that goes along with draping/patterning, though sometimes it can be a bit frustrating, it's definitely worth it in the end because you know you did everything from start to finish.
I don't think I'll have any problems with not having enough fabric- the shirt I bought is size 3X, and the skirt will probably have to be taken in. I'm wondering if I should change the bottom of the dress because I was planning to make trim from the knit dress, but I don't think the fabric will lay the way I want it to so I might have to think about a different way I can use that fabric. I would really like to keep it in the design because the colors really help tie everything together since they miraculously match the colors in trim of the black top. I've been thinking about making a scarf or some sort of accessory out of the fabric. We'll see what ends up happening...
Brook Thompson's Initial Sketch for Gypsy Lady
Update form Brook 3/29/2011
I chose a purple satin blouse with some ruffle detail on the yoke, a long, hot pink, knit stretching tube dress and a gold sweater halter style top. Accompanied with my model and feeding from our conversation I chose the pieces at the Express Yourself store. I asked her what colors she liked. She told me she liked pink and I then asked her if she liked hot pink, or pastel. She said she basically liked all pink, and also loved bright colors. I browsed through the racks with her by my side and came across the hot pink dress, which I first chose due to the color and the amount of material it had to be able to rework. I thought that would definitely come in handy. I also chose the cold sweater after I was considering it’s color and shimmer to accent the bold hot pink. With the affirmation of my model, I went with it. Then the last piece was chosen as an accent, the purple, a rich color I thought would play well with the other two. I liked it due to it’s texture, satin and the ruffle details, which I thought could be used in another way.
After picking out the three clothing items, I spent the first night getting familiar with the pieces. I contemplated their colors and textures. I mentally began to block the color pieces together daydream designing what kind of pieces they could become and how they could all work together. I tried the items on myself in order to get a feel of how their fabric would lay on the human form and how colors might feed off of each other. I looked through Runway magazine, which sparked my creativity by seeing all the ideas done by other designers. I then began sketching items with the colored pencils in the hues of the garments.
I first had thought I would use the purple blouse to turn in to a short, soft looking skirt and use the gold sweater basically as a top. I was perplexed with how to use the hot pink. The first item I chose, was now my Achilles. I just wasn’t sure about the jersey knit and how to work that in with the other two fabrics. I contemplated a scarf or long, wide sleeve(s). Yet, I thought this design idea was too simple…an easy way out. Therefore, I went back to the drawing board. I messed around more with the purple blouse and contemplated turning it into a tube style top. I thought maybe the gold sweater could be made into a mini-skirt and possibly the hot pink as a gypsy-style headwrap. I decided to sleep on those ideas last night, but ended up finding inspiration in my dreams and awoke in the middle of the night with new ideas. I envisioned using the hot pink jersey to make a type of harem pants and then the gold sweater as a waist/hip sash. That’s where I’m at so far. Now I’m moving onto the fun stuff, reworking the former garments into my ideas.
Since my last update I have worked on deconstructing all three pieces in order to begin working with them. I deconstructed the purple blouse and redesigned it into a strapless form-fitting blouse. I first cut off the arms and cut apart the front from the back. I sewed in darts on the first piece to make the neckline lay straight across and allow for a fitted bust. I also cut off the top part of the back piece to match with the strapless front. I then sewed front to back. I also worked on the harem pant by drawing out a pants pattern following the measurements of my model and allowing for a low gypsy-style inseam. I then used the pattern to cut out pieces from the hot pink jersey dress fabric. I sewed the pants together. I also met with my model to try on the blouse and pant. It was helpful in know how the items would fit and what changes to be made. I fit the blouse on her so it would be form-fitting and saw how much I would need to take in on the waist of the pants. I also played around with the bottom hem of the pants and was inspired to taper part of the shin and ankles. I have yet to work with the fabric from the gold top. I am planning to use it as a thick and ruched waistband.
April 5th update
I have been working with the gold knit top into making it a ruched waistband since my last update. I have found some difficulty with it and decided it would be too thick and bulky for the waistband. Due to this predicament, I am trying to come up with a different idea for the waistband or for a way to incorporate the gold piece. I am thinking of doing a thinner waistband with some straps that will hang down. My other idea is to use the gold knit top’s fabric in order to create a headpiece. Therefore, I have cut part of the fabric in strips and sewn them, turning them inside out to create thin strips that could hang down from the waist. I still have part of the ruched waistband I made, which could be used still. I would like to meet with my model to try things and see how the pieces will lay on her figure. I am also debating on my purple strapless top in making it a halter top or just strapless. I will hopefully meet with my model in the upcoming days to get underway in finalizing the pieces and see how everything fits together.
April 7th
Since the last update I have met again with my model to try on the harem pants and the strapless top. I have debated and gone back and forth on how to use the gold fabric and what to do for the pants waistband. In the end I did a bit of a mix of both of my previous ideas: the ruched waistband and the hanging straps. I made the waistband with one side ruched and the other side opening with the straps connecting the two pieces. Split personality meets fashion design! I tried the pants on the model and was pretty pleased with how they fit and looked on her. The heels made it even better. I also fit the top again and added a couple more darts to fit her bustline better. I also used a sleeve from the purple satin blouse and the strap from the gold top to create a gypsy headscarf. I may or may not use it for the final show, but I feel like it could tie in the outfit and help to give it that exotic funky look. Overall I feel good for finishing the project. I feel that I did take some risks with both my fabrics and design (the harem pants), but I feel like it was worth taking. It was definitely fun to do something different and funky. I feel that the colors very eye-catching, which could be positive or negative. Yet, I thought they look great on my model and feel that the hair and makeup will tie everything together and create an overall striking look.
Since the last update I have met again with my model to try on the harem pants and the strapless top. I have debated and gone back and forth on how to use the gold fabric and what to do for the pants waistband. In the end I did a bit of a mix of both of my previous ideas: the ruched waistband and the hanging straps. I made the waistband with one side ruched and the other side opening with the straps connecting the two pieces. Split personality meets fashion design! I tried the pants on the model and was pretty pleased with how they fit and looked on her. The heels made it even better. I also fit the top again and added a couple more darts to fit her bustline better. I also used a sleeve from the purple satin blouse and the strap from the gold top to create a gypsy headscarf. I may or may not use it for the final show, but I feel like it could tie in the outfit and help to give it that exotic funky look. Overall I feel good for finishing the project. I feel that I did take some risks with both my fabrics and design (the harem pants), but I feel like it was worth taking. It was definitely fun to do something different and funky. I feel that the colors very eye-catching, which could be positive or negative. Yet, I thought they look great on my model and feel that the hair and makeup will tie everything together and create an overall striking look.
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